Acclaim

Cellar Selection. This is the essence of Verdicchio, a wine that proves aromatic fireworks aren’t needed to command attention. Subtle layers of lemon peel, lemon oil, drying herbs, and sea salt unfold with quiet confidence. Like a great Chablis, it’s driven by mineral intensity, texture, and understated power. This wine doesn’t shout; it simply enters the room and everything else falls silent. Its presence and depth suggest a magnificent evolution through 2050. Jeff Porter

Produced since 1970, Fuligni’s Riserva celebrates its 50th anniversary with this 2020 release. While I am not sure it will be the estate’s longest-lived edition, it is undeniably poised to deliver substantial pleasure over the course of its lifespan. Unequivocally in its youthful phase, it currently exudes dark red cherry and pomegranate punctuated by sweet spice and an exotic hit of mahogany oil. Grenadine and candied violet suffuse the palate. The tannins are taut and refined, buttressing the weighty core. On the precipice of tipping the scales just as the fresh acidity breezes through with an effortless lift. — Michaela Morris

Lavender, eucalyptus, dark spice, new leather and juniper berry aromas shape the beautiful nose on the 2021 Fuligni Brunello. All about class and finesse, the palate boasts great intensity, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, blood orange, star anise and rosemary alongside vibrant acidity. Taut, refined tannins lend support. While incredibly tempting, this is still young so give it time to reach its full potential. Drink 2031–2041. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe November 2025 ©kerinokeefe.com

Best Buy. Fresh cut pine, overipe black cherry, and stoney, this wine smells like a forest walk in the spring. More and more alpine qualities show up on the palate that resemble tree bark, portabella, and soft turned earth. The finish feels powdered and dry with a black stone freshness. – M.R.L.

Mahogany and spearmint take first appearance in its aromatics as pine needle and bright red cherry show up after a few swirls. Ripe raspberry and dried orange peel appear on the palate working in sync for a more vibrant appeal. The wine is chalky dry but fresh with snappy acidity. — M.R.L.

Editor’s Choice. There are Barolos that impress and there are those that genuinely move you, and this falls firmly into the second category. Almost-picked cherries, mint, camphor, and pressed rose float from the glass with a lightness and purity that feels almost impossible to achieve, rose threading all the way through the elegant and refined palate before fine tannins and a fresh, tart finish close things out with a quiet and lasting grace. Drink now.

This wine has its village in its bones and makes no attempt to be anything else; pretty and open with the kind of elegant personality that makes Verduno one of Barolo’s most quietly compelling communes. Mixed red fruits and generous spice with fine tannins that never get in the way of the fun. Approachable, alive, and completely delicious.

If you want to show someone what makes Monvigliero so beloved, pour this. Ripe strawberry, fresh mint, a lush herb garden, and the faintest hint of rosewood paint a picture of pure Barolo elegance before a rounded and wonderfully soft palate delivers on every single promise the nose made.

Rosewood and sandalwood lift out of the glass before cherry and tea take over and set the tone for what turns out to be a very fruit-forward and completely confident wine. Fine tannins thread through without a fuss before the finish lands a little savory curveball that makes you go back for one more sip just to make sure you caught it.

Warmed mixed berry jam and sandalwood pull you in before singed star anise and dried forest herbs flip the script entirely. Then it clicks, this is sour cherries slowly simmering in a pot of herbs and spices and you are just happy to be in the kitchen. The palate turns savory and medicinal, fine tannins walking it all the way home. Drink now–2040. Cellar Selection. —J.P.