Recioto della Valpolicella Classico “La Roggia” DOCG

The Speri family has been making wine in the Valpolicella Classico appellation since the early nineteenth century, deeply focusing on preserving the local heritage and highlighting the unique terroir, cultivating only native Valpolicella clones and epitomizing the most authentic expression of the appellation. Every one of the Speri vineyards is in the Classico area and total 60 hectares (148 acres), in the finest districts: Fumane, Negrar, and San Pietro in Cariano. And the estate-owned vineyards themselves are divided into distinct crus: La Roverina, Sant’Urbano and La Roggia.

The name Valpolicella contains the Italian word for “valley” for a reason. But the entire Valpolicella appellation is not so much a single valley as a number of small valleys fanning out towards the hills behind Verona. Its wonderful climate, abundant sources of water and gently rolling landscape have made this a densely inhabited territory throughout the centuries. The Classico area of the Valpolicella appellation’s historic core covers a mere fifth of the DOC’s total territory. It enjoys excellent, elevated terrain in the Alpine foothills and a mild climate you would not expect at this northerly latitude.

The Speri family is now seven generations in, and deeply proud of being a family-owned and sustained operation, with three generations currently involved. Pioneers in their own right, the family is even responsible for creating the “Pergoletta Speri” training system that is considered the most effective training system there is for Amarone in the area, designed to give the grapes more sun exposure and essential ventilation.

The hillside vineyards are also cultivated using traditional marogne, which are stone walls that create terracing on the slope. Not only do they protect against washout, but they also retain heat well. They also provide shelter to a vast array of insects thus helping maintain balance in the ecosystem.

After already many years of sustainable agriculture, the Speri vineyards have been certified organic since 2015. Their ultimate goal is to get as close as possible to a naturally balanced agricultural ecosystem by implementing practices that combine a knowledge of ecology, plant physiology, biochemistry and the study of insect behavior.

The grapes for La Roggia, which come from La Roggia vineyard, on the slopes of Monte Sausto in San Pietro in Cariano, dry for a long period before being turned into a lush sweet wine.

The best bunches of 70% Corvina and 30% Rondinella are carefully selected by hand and dried for about 120 days, losing up to a 43% loss of their initial weight. In January, they are soft-pressed, de-stemmed, then macerated on the skins for about twenty-four days. Raised in barrique for eighteen to twenty-four months and then for twelve in bottle. This refined red “passito” (dried grape sweet wine) is extraordinarily rich and all-encompassing. Lovely on its own or with classic, traditional desserts.